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Wine Facts | Updated June 29, 2005
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Taking the Mystery out of Chinese Food & Wine Pairing
By Amy Christine Lee
To many, wine is an essential element of any great dining experience. While there is a long and intricate history in much of the Western world surrounding wine and food pairing, very little research has been done on pairing Chinese cuisine with wine. In the past, Rieslings and Merlots tended to be the pairing of choice for all Chinese foods. Today, we know differently.
The fact that a fruity acidic Riesling can pair with some Chinese dishes doesn't mean that it is the ideal match for the myriad of culinary creations spanning from spicy Szechwan to delicate steamed dim sum. A merlot, with its full, round, rich flavors and soft low-acid and low-tannin character tends to be an excellent accompaniment to traditional Peking duck. However, merlot, for the same reasons it matches well with roasted duck, would not be a good match for dishes including a sweet and sour sauce.
Recently, a team of tasters including myself, had an interesting experience that truly opened our eyes to a wide range of wine options to pair with Chinese cuisine that were more than surprising to our group. The idea behind the tasting was to offer wine suggestions on a Chinese menu, which would take some of the mystery and anxiety out of choosing an excellent wine to accompany the selected meal.
The set up was this: the Montrose team brought in 10 different wines which were put up against 10 of Chef Jacky Chan's signature dishes at the Swissotel's award winning Chinese restaurant. The participants represented a wide range of wine and food knowledge. The participants (an even split of local Chinese and expatriate palates) tasted each of the wines before, with, and after tasting each Chinese dish. Amongst the wines we tasted were Sauvignon Blanc, Chardonnay, unwooded Chardonnay, Riesling, Chenin Blanc, Beaujolais Nouveau, Pinot Noir, Merlot, and Red Zinfandel. We tasted each of the ten wines, one by one, with each signature dish.
Our biggest surprise in the tasting was that not one of the dishes that we tasted paired well with the Riesling while almost all seemed to match well with the red zinfandel. Red zinfandel, with its traditional characteristics of raspberry jam and spice on the palate is an excellent match for spicier Asian dishes. What shocked us is that we all loved it with a delicate, pan-fried cod topped with a very lightly spiced chili sauce. Cod and red zinfandel?? But it worked! (Admittedly, the hands down winner for this dish, was a French pinot noir. The velvety texture of the wine and light fruit forward flavors were a truly exceptional match for the delicate nature of the fish - the wine was just heavy enough to take on the chili sauce without overpowering the fish.)
Seafood dishes and light spicy soups as well as dishes including a sweet and sour sauce, matched well with the Chenin Blanc. The light citrus flavors and soft dry palate of the Chenin Blanc provided balance to the flavors and textures of these dishes. We also found that an Italian Pinot Grigio paired exceptionally well with a delicate dish described as Shrimp and Mango with Egg Whites in Pastry Shell. Our tasting notes: Light and fruity - almost sparkling in appearance. No/little aftertaste - very clean palate. With this dish we found it a perfect complement to the mangoes ¨C the wine enhanced the light soft flavors of the fruit without overpowering the rest of the dish. The wine took on almost a buttery soft texture with this dish ¨C soooooo smooth!
With dishes such as Chicken fried and stuffed with spinach served with sour sauce and a spicy beef and mushroom dish, we found the merlot matched well. With the chicken, the wine had just enough fruit to stand up to the sour sauce yet stayed light and soft on the palate ¨C the wine became almost velvety in texture with this dish. With the beef, soft nuances of oak and vanilla came forward with just a hint of blueberry, which lingered on the finish.
The bottom line is that wine can be very surprising. The flavors that emerge with a wine when drinking it on its own can be very different once matched with food. Thus, it is important to be adventurous when entering the wide world of food and wine pairing. Everyone's palate is different. What works for one may not work for all - this is what makes it fun! Listen to what those around you taste and experience and appreciate the differences you find on your own - remember that just because you don't like a particular wine, doesn't mean that it is a bad wine. However, drink what tastes best to YOU, not your neighbor. Forget about pretenses, and dive in headfirst.
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